How To Change Brake Pads On A Chevy Avalanche

code4av

I am going to need to supervene upon the front pads on my 2003.... how hard is this job? Should I just have a shop do it? I used to do the brakes on my Toyota PU before I bought the Avy... but I too had the Chiltons manual for the Toyota... I haven't been able to get one for the Avy....

cadboy1

If you did brakes on almost anything else at all, y'all tin do brakes on the AV. No real big difference at all..Piece of cake as it gets

ygmn

Check some of the threads in this section and the Peoblems restriction section..

there are some threads with advice from those who have done it...

every bit the large Torx bit required tin can exist a PIA to loosen

cadboy1

Yeah, make certain you take a T-55 torx bit handy

2002AVA

I supercede my forepart and rears by myself. it took about 15 minutes per corner. I likewise did replace the rotors. This is something I highly recommend. I went with the Slotted in the front with GPS pads and Ceramics in the rears with Brembo's.

My stopping distance is and then much meliorate and so stock. And with all the parts i spent less than $200.00.

Likewise I take a broken lower dorsum.

Shane

sagey78

Any ideas on getting the caliper nut to loosen...accept been Chief Blasting, and still can't go it off to change front brake pads!!! UGH!? ?Any suggestions profoundly appreciated
:help:

grnxnam

I concluded up putting mine on a lift and using a 30'' breaker bar to remove the torx bolt on mine.

ameliorate accept a back up bit just in case. I bankrupt the first 1 I was using.

2002AVA

I removed the bolts that hold the caliper to the hub. I used a 20" breaker bar and a 28oz. framing hammer for extra encouragement.

Shane

ggates

You will need a breaker bar, or a heck of an air wrench. Other than that, go for information technology.

Just don't do what I did. for some reason my front'south are squealing similar pigs. Must be those cheap $xx rotors I got at advanced auto parts. I did put enough lube on the pad.

2002AVA

ggates said:

You lot will need a breaker bar, or a heck of an air wrench. Other than that, go for it.

Just don't exercise what I did. for some reason my front'due south are squealing like pigs. Must be those inexpensive $20 rotors I got at advanced auto parts. I did put plenty lube on the pad.

Must be cause my brakes don't make any sound at all.

ggates

I guess. I've never had a set of brakes squeal like the ones I have now.

I checked the pads, etc., everything's adept, plenty of anti-squeal. Rotors even await shiny, no heat spots, etc. Merely they however bleat like crazy. Of course, I didn't do the rear, this was washed past the dealer due to the crummy e-brake shoes. Perchance the audio is actually coming from the back. Difficult to tell when driving with your head out the window

2002AVA

Did you set you brakes properly later installing them? It is required to leave and practise 4 35 -0 moderate stops then 2 45-0 difficult stops. This will run the pads and rotor very hot. You then allow the brakes cool for about 15 minutes. When I did this on both the Av and the Honda all the noises went away. Also I had a lot firmer brake pedal feel.

ggates

I did. I've probably put at to the lowest degree 10k miles on the pads now. 5k went by before the squeaking started to occur.

Who knows, perchance I should do it again

2002AVA

I drove the AV 3k earlier someone told me I was suppose to burn them in. I also figured that since I had driven so many miles it should be good, I was wrong. The other thing is you might but need to sand off the glazing on the pads and rotors. This helps sometimes.

ggates

Yeah, I've done this with a grinding bicycle before. I put on ceramics, and maybe this combination is just noiser than semi-metallic. When I go to practice the plugs and wires, I'll take a await at them. I splintered up my T55 torx a scrap when I removed the caliper pins last time, so I might too pick upwards a new i (and a real breaker bar to remove them, instead of the slice of galvanized pipe I was putting around my 3/eight socket wrench!).

cadboy1

I had initially used Bendix Semi-metallic and establish them to be incredibly noisy and created much more dust than stock. I switched to Ceramic Monroe pads and no-racket and very picayune dust

BlackOpSoldier

Shanes 02 Avalanche said:

Did you lot gear up y'all brakes properly subsequently installing them? It is required to go out and do iv 35 -0 moderate stops then two 45-0 hard stops. This will run the pads and rotor very hot. You then let the brakes cool for nearly 15 minutes. When I did this on both the Av and the Honda all the noises went away. Also I had a lot firmer brake pedal feel.

did you need to rebleed. I was taught to rebleed after doing this with whatsoever truck or automobile.
as for the squeal I had them in mine intill i did the breaks myself. the dealer doesnt use anti squeal

Rivercity

BlackOpSoldier said:

did you need to rebleed. I was taught to rebleed afterward doing this with any truck or car.
every bit for the squeal I had them in mine intill i did the breaks myself. the dealer doesnt use anti squeal

You lot don't necessarily have to bleed your brake lines each time you supervene upon pads and rotors, obviously y'all have to make sure no air gets in the lines.

What I do is merely remove a half a cup or so from the master cylinder (using a fluid removal pump), so when the caliper is pressed in the brake fluid doesn't spill everywhere. (This stuff will eat through your pigment).

As far as squeeky brakes afterward replacing, I would bed them a couple of times and run into if that works out.

How To Change Brake Pads On A Chevy Avalanche

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ygmn

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